The Americanization of Sushi
I often wonder how the Godfather of sushi, Hanaya Yohei, would react to how sushi has transformed today. Would he vomit at the sight of sushi burgers? Would he destroy exaggerated Japanese decor? Would he slap those that soak their nigiri in spicy mayo? Would he dance to Drake blasting on the speakers? Whatever his reaction, I am sure it wouldn’t all be pleasant.
Sushi has evolved drastically since Hanaya Yohei first invented nigiri in the 18th century. He not only shortened the fermentation process, but altered the taste by marinating fish with vinegar and soy. Most importantly, he hand pressed vinegared rice balls and put them directly underneath the seasoned fish. Soon thereafter, many other sushi chefs followed suit and Edomae-zushi was enjoyed well past the Edo period. Once refrigeration became available, Nigiri-zushi became popularized and raw fish was able to be consumed on a larger scale. The range of toppings became endless, and the rise of Japanese fusion became the forefront, particularly with Latin and European techniques.
There are a handful of sushi purists that still continue to practice Edomae-zushi. The amount of prep work is meticulous and laborious resulting in an expensive dining experience. Master sushi chef, Nozomu Abe, owner of New York’s Sushi Noz, remains true to the Edomae style. He goes as far as sourcing fish from Toyosu in Japan, the largest fish market in the world. The connection with each fish is spiritual as he feels compelled to offer the best flavor from them. Mainstream sushi restaurants might not be so keen to seek out the best products or have the desire to educate themselves and their team because after all, it takes a tremendous amount of skill and time to learn Edomae-zushi. In addition, most diners are not willing to drop such heavy dollars for a meal.
Sushi rolls are generally what most Americans think of when they hear sushi, especially since it has become affordable. They are even available pre-made in grocery stores or frozen. Sushi rolls are a quick and filling meal, particularly when smothered with spicy mayo, overly torched, or even deep fried. A first time sushi diner that enjoys an overdressed roll is then led to believe that is what sushi is supposed to be like. Mark Hellyar, former head chef of BOKA’s Momotaro, explains that the origins of Japanese cuisine comes from “traditional techniques” and “making everything from scratch”. He continues to say that Japanese cuisine has certainly become lost at times and “misrepresented, with no real trace of Japanese culture”.
Chef Mark Hellyar’s passion and understanding of Japanese cuisine expanded during a sponsorship in Japan. He yearned to bring to the States what he learned. His style certainly embodied Japanese soul cooking, so much so that he paved the way for modern Japanese cuisine in Chicago. One major reason for his ability to connect to the culture is his eagerness to find the best products. “90% of our fish came directly from Japan”, whereas other ingredients were as close as possible to Japanese produce.
Having said all this, exactly how can savvy foodies differentiate between authentic and mainstream sushi? How can restaurants represent Japanese culture with integrity? As sushi becomes globalized, these questions must be raised, because it is a matter of time when mass food production will greatly hinder the quality and environment of fish.
In order to truly grasp how sushi became what it is today, the discussion of ichthyophobia, “fear of eating fish and/or raw fish” must be brought to light. Victorians that first traveled to Japan in the 18th century gasped at the consumption of sushi. It wasn’t until the 1970s, a phenomenon known as the Sushi Boom occurred. Sushi chefs created California and Philadelphia rolls to please American palettes. Additionally, tuna became a staple, as their speed and size produce Otoro, a highly marbleized belly. This specialized cut became greatly admired by American diners. It is no easy task to find Otoro, as the whole Tuna must be butchered in the restaurant to maintain the freshness of the fish. Due to the profitable consumption, restaurateurs and chefs compete to find the finest Tuna around the world.
Nonetheless, the rapid consumption of sushi in America has led to environmental concerns. Overfishing practices, where conditions are unsanitary and overcrowded often go unnoticed by the public. World Wildlife Fund states that “Bluefin tuna populations have declined severely from overfishing and illegal fishing over the past few decades –not just Atlantic bluefin tuna, but also Pacific bluefin tuna and Southern bluefin tuna. Population declines have been largely driven by the demand for this fish in high end sushi markets.” Thus confirming unsustainable food sources are negatively impacting the ocean’s environment.
Most sushi diners are often only aware of tuna, yellowtail, and salmon as they are the most commonly ordered fish. Though, there are plenty of other options that are more sustainable, such as scallops, mackerel or albacore tuna. Above all, a better understanding where exactly your fish comes can contribute to what you order. Evidently, the demand for sushi has led to a growth of sushi restaurants. According to IBISWorld, “There are 15,999 Sushi Restaurants businesses in the US as of 2022, an increase of 3.6% from 2021.” The number is expected to increase and I suspect that the next sushi trend will surpass the sushi pizza.
It is ever so apparent that more Americans are willing to give sushi a try especially since there are plenty of cooked options. Though after serving in various Japanese restaurants for 16 years, there is the occasional diner that openly expresses their distaste for raw fish. Shrimp tempura and eel avocado rolls are definitely for the less experienced sushi eater. The worst is watching someone painfully attempt to cut their nigiri in half. The butter knife awkwardly splits the rice grains and destroys the perfectly sliced fish. The nigiri then has lost its ability to fully please as the mobilization has become depleted. Indeed, the true essence of sushi has become lost as more and more Americans interpret sushi in different ways. Whatever type of experience a diner has had before with sushi, I can get a general consensus from the questions they ask. Quite frankly, I’ve become tired of answering the same questions and even hurt that sushi has lost its identity. I have learned to not force people to try what they are not willing to try, but when I do have the opportunity to change someone’s perspective on sushi, I cannot help but become overcome with gratification. I feel fulfilled as I know that the chances of them ordering nigiri again are especially high.
As a server, I feel a sense of duty to please my guests, but in a way that fully embraces Japan and caters to the environment. Although I am Korean American, and well aware of the history between Japan and Korea, I am no way suggesting that Japan offers the best form of Asian cuisine. I feel the same passion for Korean food, though that is a whole different topic. The discussion here is sushi, and how Japanese food has become “Lost in Translation”. Through it all, Koreans were instrumental in maintaining Japanese culture as many of them are sushi chefs, in addition to Thai, Latinos, Chinese, Blacks and other people of color. I don’t necessarily believe that one must Japanese to be the best sushi chef. Oftentimes, Japanese sushi chefs are the face of the restaurant because of their heritage when actuality, the burden and labor falls on the chefs that are non Japanese. Their skill may surpass the Japanese sushi chef but because they are not Japanese, their credibility becomes invalid.
Surely, it is the sole responsibility of the restaurant owner(s) to understand Japanese and other Asian cultures as well. Asian cuisine is frequently used as a blanket term to cover all of Asia. Many fail to realize that there is too much of a range and it simply cannot be put into one category. Agreeably, there is a bit of crossover at times, but generally there is a sense of identity that is specific to that culture. The misrepresentation of Japanese food leads to confusion and overshadows its true origins. There is nothing wrong with using various Asian ingredients, just as long as the integrity and origins of the dish aren’t misplaced. Char Kol, a Korean BBQ restaurant in Philly was forced to make changes as their misrepresentation of Asian cultures led to boycotts and protests. As more sushi restaurants are expected to open, restaurant owners must educate themselves and seek out experts that are familiar with the cuisine. The intention and harm might be unnoticed due to the lack of knowledge.
Believe it or not, sushi was originally invented by the Chinese. The improved preparation and transformation has stayed with the Japanese culture. Sushi isn’t merely a combination of raw fish, a slab of wasabi and vinegar marinated rice. It is a solitary art form that is created from a chef that spends more than half of his day prepping and curating a menu for the sake of his guests’ pleasure. He spends more time with his fish than his family. The sacrifice, diligence, and knifemanship is not developed in a single day but rather years of gracious solitude. For that very reason, I always observe the sushi chef before I decide what to order. Does his knife move in gentle and swift movements? Does it go against or with the grain of the fish? How does he cook his Tamago? Where does the fish come from? I can tell how much care he puts into his work from his patience and matched speed. If he has a story to tell with his fish, I do not ignore it, and for that very reason, I do not plan on ever trying a sushi hot dog.
